Sustainable traditional dyeing of wool by Bhotia tribe in Himalayan region: A case study

Abstract

Bhotia tribe is one of the community residing in the high Himalayan region of Uttarakhand state that shares the border with Tibet. The tribe is divided into five sub-groups viz., the Jadhs ,  Marchas, Tolchas ,  Shaukas and Rung. The present study was conducted in the five villages namely Lata and Chinka from Chamoli, Darkot and Baluwakot from Pithoragarh and Dunda from Uttarkashi of Uttarakhand for exploring the information from different sub-groups of Bhotia tribe about plants used by them for extracting dyes and used for traditional textile coloration in past and during present time. The rich flora of Himalayan region in Uttarakhand has been abode to varieties of plant species. The wild plant species were used by the Bhotia tribals for dyeing their woolen products. These plant dyes were obtained from jangli palak (Rumex nepalensis), bagmaru (Eupatorium), kilmora (Berberis asiatica), akhrot (Juglans regia), dholu (Rheum aystrale), tea leaves, tantri (Rheum moorcroftianum), kaphal (Myrica esculenta), darim (Punica grantum), burans (Rhodendron araborium) and harda (Terminlia chebula). Today only Shauka and Jadh tribals are using natural dyes for dyeing woolen yarn. Reasons for the reduction in usage of natural dyes among Bhotia tribals were the extinction of plant species, change in land use, natural disasters, government restriction on plucking certain plant species, the availability of synthetic dyes and colored yarns at low cost in the market. The identification of factors that led to the non-practice of sustainable dying practice among tribals for woolen craft will help in planning and conducting interventions through public, private and government organizations.